Kona restautant’s magical afternoon tea
Behiye Hassan tries the new ‘Secret Garden’ afternoon tea experience, offered by award-winning restaurant Kona, it is so delightful it’s unlikely to remain a secret for long
Once upon a time, the 7th Duchess of Bedford fancied a little something to keep her going between lunch and dinner – and the concept of afternoon tea was born. Over 150 years later, the custom is no longer the preserve of the wealthy or aristocratic, and since the positive boom in hotels and restaurants offering this mid-afternoon treat, it now seems as though the world and its wife are all regularly partaking in the ritual.
So ubiquitous is the custom, that the real challenge nowadays is to stand out from the afternoon tea crowd and elevate the experience. These days, a memorable afternoon tea has to be more than finger sandwiches and tea served on whisper-fine crockery – it needs to offer an escape from the everyday.
So, naturally, our fancy was tickled when we were invited to The Secret Garden Afternoon Tea. Hosted by Kona – the award-winning restaurant within the five-star Taj 51 Buckingham Gate Suites and Residences – and situated just a scone’s throw from Buckingham Palace, we knew that luxury would be a given – but it was the intriguing concept that really piqued our curiosity.
Inspired by The Secret Garden, the children’s classic tale, by Frances Hodgson Burnett, the promise was that we would be whisked away to a stunning Yorkshire garden with every mouthwatering bite. And the courtyard at St James’ Court was suitably stunning; festooned with gorgeous brightly coloured floral displays and butterflies dotted amongst them, the tables and chairs were set against a beautiful floor-to-ceiling flower wall.
These decorative touches continued inside with red flowers adorning every windowsill, and – naturally – a copy of The Secret Garden for you to flick through while you wait. The china crockery in pastels and gold were as delicate as the butterflies they were decorated with, and the paper butterfly that fluttered out of the menu when opened was a truly special touch.
There were three exclusive teas to choose from: Lady Lavender – a full bodied and fragrant black tea from the Earl Grey family; Dozy Girl, described as an ‘English garden in a cup’ and Summer of love – a green tea that’s fruity in flavour (and was also our personal favourite). For those looking to upgrade their experience, The Secret Garden Gin Distillery has partnered with Kona to deliver three nature-inspired flavoured gins – lemon verbena, apothecary rose, and lavender and echinacea.
The first course was both magical and creative; presented with a wooden box with ‘Everything is made out of magic’ inscribed on the lid, we were tasked with finding the key to unlock the box. The key is hidden in a different place for every customer, but ours was nestled within a layer of biscuit ‘soil’ and edible flowers – delicious and so pretty. The novel’s Mary Lennox would have been delighted!
The sandwiches and pastries came presented on a gorgeous gold cake stand with leaf detailing. With a menu of fresh garden herb roast chicken complemented with a gorgeous lemon mayonnaise, free range egg and garden peas, cucumber, beetroot and basil on tomato bread we were spoilt for choice…but our absolute favourite was oak-smoked salmon with avocado and dill cream cheese on scrumptious spinach bread.
The pastries and cakes may have looked too good to eat, but we bravely persevered. And we were duly rewarded: the edible rose with glistening dew drops was deliciously light and combined tangy raspberry and refreshing lychee perfectly. The attention to detail throughout was incredible; we enjoyed mango and lime sponge cake decorated with edible chocolate butterflies, plus an edible pot showcasing a selection of chocolatey flowers. The zesty citrus cream cheese tart with basil was the most unusual – but equally delicious offering here.
Of course, it wouldn’t be afternoon tea without the scones, and at Kona these were presented under atranslucent dome to represent garden mist. The dome was lifted and the ‘mist’ cleared to reveal warm berry scones and clotted cream, with mixed jam and honey for drizzling. It was a beautiful detail to end the experience on.
As you may expect, leaving behind this magical garden world for the city streets wasn’t easy…but we couldn’t have eaten another bite. Our only suggestion? A few more savoury options would have been extra lovely.
For an afternoon tea with a difference, Kona does not disappoint; delicious, inventive and with a little touch of magic. If you’re looking for a journey into another world, the Secret Garden Afternoon comes highly recommended – we promise it’s an experience that won’t easily be forgotten...
The Secret Garden Afternoon Tea is available in Kona every Thursday to Sunday, with 12pm, 2pm and 4pm seatings at £75 per person.